Monday, January 18, 2010

Phnom Phen, Cambodia

eating fab Cambodian grub at Khmer Kitchen


jam sesh with the locals

Royal Palace


Chinese House

1.15.10 - 1.16.10: Spent two days and one night with Jenny (a girl who lived with me and Rachel for a summer in Brookline in 2006) who has been living there working for an NGO for 6 months. We had a delicious lunch outside (with her new super cute 7 week-old puppy, Mayu) and enjoyed some of the sights of the city in the afternoon, including walking along the river front. That night we had a great dinner and drinks at a really cute restaurant/art gallery called the Chinese House. Then we stopped in at a carnival on the way home to win her dog a little toy (who knew I was such a dart champion?) and we had wine and chocolate with her boyfriend and his sister who were hosting their "god parents" in Cambodia for the weekend - all the way from Grand Rapids, MI! She actually is well known in Cambodia she has done a lot of work there and wrote a book about the Khmer Rouge - I am currently reading it now. It's incredible what horrible things happened in that country only a few decades ago. Next day we had a great brunch then spent the day walking around the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda (beautiful! no pictures inside the Wats though) and stopping in at little shops and cafes until lunch, which was authentic Cambodian food in an open, breezy place where we sat on the floor on a beautiful rug and stuffed our faces for about $5 each. Then off to the airport in a tuk-tuk for Siem Reap!


Oh, just an elephante walking through town


Jenny and I in front of the Independence Monument




Thursday, January 14, 2010

Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon


Reunification Palace


Motorbike ride around town


1.13.10 - 1.14.10: Spent the two days wandering the city; seeing the sights, trying new food and drinks, did some shopping and caught up on email, laundry, and dealt with my stolen bank of america debit card number situation on the phone for a while too. Had nice dinner and drinks outside in the sweltering heat on the corner of a busy intersection... it's no oceanfront dining at all, but an interesting scene none the less. I was expecting Ho Chi Minh to be so much more congested and busy than Hanoi, and although it is a bigger city, I like it as much as I liked Hanoi. I actually really like the area surrounding my hostel and have been able to find my way around pretty easily. Lots of cute shops, cafes, restaurants and bars (like most touristy areas I've been visiting) - very busy and bustling part of town. The main sights I saw were the Reunification Palace, Ben Thanh Market and the War Remnants Museum. I was at the Museum for about 3 hours... it really was quite the intense and extremely sad and disturbing exhibit and experience...

Other than that though, lots of walking, shopping, eating great Vietnamese food (lots of Pho!), sleeping and relaxing :) Off to Cambodia tomorrow!


Streets of Saigon


Outside the War Remnants Museum


not sure what these are called but bike ride around town with a nice local

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Hanoi, Vietnam

1.09.10 - Although the visa situation was a bit sketchy and I had to go to a separate room once I got to the Vietnam airport - I got into the country OK. I did also see that other people were buying visas on arrival (like the woman said I couldn't do) for cheaper than I got mine. So I guess I was ripped off... guess I just didn't see it coming from a Vietnam Airlines worker in the international airport, silly me.

The ride I arranged from the hostel was there to pick me up and I had an hour taxi ride into Hanoi. The crazy traffic and way these people drive is seriously insane... but the part of the ride that was the funniest to me was the Vietnamese younger man driving me and going through the radio stations finding something to listen to. He decides to stop on Christmas music in English (no versions I have ever heard before, but all the old favorites). This wasn't too surprising because there are still Christmas decorations everywhere and people still wish me a Happy New Year even though it's well beyond the new year - but I thought maybe he stopped on the music for me. So we're crazily speeding every which way in and out of traffic, honking absolutely everywhere and more mopeds than I've ever seen before, passing on the other side with incoming traffic like it's nothing - and in the background is a slow quiet version of "Silent Night." Maybe you had to be there but it was funny to me. Then the best part was Rocking Around the Christmas Tree (not the good version from Home Alone but still same song) came on and he got a huge smile across his face, turned it up, and started to bop his head and tap his fingers on the steering wheel and whistled to the music. Clearly the music wasn't for me after all :)

Within 3 minutes of arriving to the popular, bustling hostel in Hanoi I already had met a group of about 10 people from all over the world, all very friendly and up for some road food and a night out. After getting some local food from a lady on the street we went to a bar on the 3rd story overlooking this crazy intersection... I have never seen so many mopeds, so many people on one moped (all wearing masks) and crazy driving in my life. The intersection had 6 streets all coming into this one huge area - and with no round abouts or traffic lights, somehow everyone makes it through unscathed. Sure there's lots of veering and lots of honking, but it's just a normal intersection for them. It was really crazy. We had to cross this area too and there's no way to do it you just walk through and the mopeds just don't hit you... it was a really interesting sight. Then we went to this well-known beer place where everyone sits outside on the sidewalk in plastic chairs (most places in Vietnam actually has you sit in tiny itty bitty little plastic stools where the sitting area is about size of a novel book and about 3-4 inches from the ground), drinking Bia Ha Noi which is apparently the world's cheapest beer. It was really crowded but fun atmosphere and very cheap beer.


drinking our Bia Ha Noi Beer outside


As I was sitting on my stool drinking my beer in the street I see a group of guys walk buy and one of them looks strangely familiar and he looks at me with the same recognition - as he gets closer I see it's one of the guys I met in Lao in the group of people I met bowling. It was so random but I guess if you hit all the main backpacker/touristy things maybe you're bound to see people again who you've met before without planning it? Anyways it was a random thing anyway and our group and his group went out to some of the bars and had a good time. Apparently bars in Vietnam have to close at 12, but they all stay open and if a cop is coming near they have some way of letting each other know. So we're standing in the bar and all of a sudden they turn off the music, bring the chairs inside and close the front metal garage door type door, they wait about 5 minutes, then they open back up. And apparently even if they are caught they just pay them off anyway so no big deal.

1.10.10 - Walked around and toured Hanoi with two New Zealanders and one English guy. Saw some of the main sights including the Museum of Ethnology which had a nice exhibit on the culture and history of countries surrounding the Mekkong River, then visited the Hoan Kiem Lake then sat down at one of the local food shops for lunch. Although they tried ripping us off in the beginning we ended up getting a great meal for very cheap. Made it back to the hostel for the free beer at 3pm on the roof. Met more people staying at the hostel and free beer turned into happy hour then we had a delish BBQ upstairs.



they seriously fit this much stuff on their motor bikes

Exhibit at Museum of Ethnology


Hoan Kiem Lake

Ngoc Son Temple


walking around Hanoi

Hanoi

Vietnamese lunch in Hanoi

lots of women walking around like this

Then me and about 14 other people got ready to go to the snake village. Apparently a snake's blood and bile was believed to be good for healing and an aphrodisiac, respectively, so that is how the ritual of sacrificing and eating a snake started. So 3 lucky people (only had 3 snakes to sacrifice) cut into the snake then pulled the heart out of the animal and quickly ate it, so they could still feel it beating as it went down their throat. Then the bile and blood was squeezed out for us to take shots of, and meat was used for our huge meal. Most was just the meat either marinated in herbs and such, others were wrapped in seaweed or deep fried or something, one dish was ground up and marinated snake bones, one dish had the skin which was disgusting. But we had a really fun group and all the beer and snake liquor/wine we could drink so we had a really fun lively night and headed out to some of the other fun Hanoi bars before calling it a night.




Naren sacrificing the snake before eating the heart


cheers to snake blood! bile was next...

our snake feast

looks good doesn't it?

snake liquor shots

Vietnam - Halong Bay


Lovely hats we got to wear to the port

1.11.10 - Today we had to wake up super early to get on a 3 hour bus ride to Halong Bay. This was quite painful after the eventful day/night we had previously but driving through the Vietnam country side was really interesting. Saw lots of mopeds with dead or alive, wasn't sure, donkeys strapped to the back of them, one had 8 cages of live pics on them, all just casually riding by with 1-3 other people on the bike as well. Got onto our huge Junk Boat and had a great Vietnamese lunch then started making our way away from the Harbor and into the Bay. The islands and bay were beautiful and our boat was really cool too. After checking in and enjoying the scenery, some of the braver people jumped off the side of the boat into the freezing cold but very refreshing water. Then a few of us jumped off the highest part of the boat - it was quite a high jump but really fun. Then we went kayaking around the islands and went into this cave where there water was enclosed by the cliffs around it - and we saw about 20-30 monkeys crawling by on the cliffs. Then we kayaked back, had a great dinner, then the whole group (mostly English and Australians) pretty much just had a nice of drinking games and listening to music and hanging out. It was a really good time and it was awesome hanging out on the deck with the awesome scenery around us.


views of Halong Bay


Swimming in Halong Bay after we made the plunge


About to Jump off the boat into the Bay


jumping off the really high part of the boat - yikes!



Wild monkeys we saw while Kayaking

Kayaking through a cave

Enjoying the Kayaking

1.12.10 - Pretty much just had breakfast then lunch, hung around on the boat as we made our way back to the harbor. Drive back to Hanoi and me and my Kiwi friend Lindsay got our stuff together to make our way out of Hanoi that night. We had a nice dinner with comfort food (pizza and pasta) then hung around the hostel for a bit and met some people just coming into the city, then we parted ways as I got onto my plane for Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon.

The only interesting thing about my flight that really annoyed me was people literally elbowing and PUSHING their way onto and off of the plane. In general I found Thai people to be more friendly and a little nicer than the Vietnamese people, but this really made them take the cake on being pushy. At first I thought the locals were just stepping in front of line and elbowing me out of the way because I was one of the 4 white people on the flight but I saw this guy totally elbow this lady who was carrying a baby 3 rows ahead of him so he could get off the plane before her. They didn't seem rushed necessarily, especially since we all had to wait for everyone to get on the shuttle to take us to baggage claim, but everyone had bags to claim too. I didn't see anyone dash for the restroom either, and about 1/3 of the people did this while getting on and off the plane, so I'm thinking its a cultural thing... really don't get it but who knows.



view in Halong Bay


drinking games in Halong Bay


Hanging out with the Ozzies

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Luang Prabang


My hostel in Luang Prabang

1.07.10 - woke up early to find my shoes at the bottom of the hotel stairs missing (you take your shoes off before going inside just about everywhere) so I am now without my black reefs, that's now 4 things lost or left behind! But don't worry, I've made up for it in things I've bought :) early flight after late night = nap as soon as I arrived to my guesthouse. Shower is freezing cold but I guess that's what you get on a budget. Walked around and took in the sights of the pretty town. I can see why it was deemed world heritage status. Small town with mopeds, tuktuks, and bikes buzzing around. Every corner with cute cafes, massage places, food stands, and stands selling local goods. Open air day market and bustling huge night market everynight. Monks walking around everywhere and temples tucked away seemingly on everyblock. On a peninsula between the Mekkong River and Nam Khan River - main part of town really only about 0.1 miles by 0.4 miles so very walkable. had some fried veggie noodles on a quiet patio outside with palm trees and twinkly lights everywhere before calling it a night.


More Mekkong River



Wat Xieng Thong


Inside one of the temples at wat xieng thong


Ho Kham - Royal Museum


more night market action


in front of the big falls



jumping off the smaller falls into pools



swimming in pools of Kuang Si waterfall

1.08.10 - Lao coffee and nutella-banana crepe for breakfast ($2) - great start to the day! took a slow boat down the Mekkong River to a small village along the way, Ban Xang Hai also called "whiskey village" because they produce a lot of the lao rice whiskey (Lao-Lao) which is actually pretty good, then finally made our eay to the Pak Ou Caves which essentially are two big caves in limestone cliffs which were discovered a while ago to have been a place of worship to people in Lao in thr 1600s. Nothing incredibly impressive but (much like all of the other temples I've visited so far) filled and filled with buddha statues in all shapes and sizes. Then hour long boat ride back to town and then hopped on a tuk-tuk to take me to the Kuang Si waterfalls. There was a bear rescue center along the way (very random but the bears were cute) and then further into the forest were the lower portions of the waterfall - with smaller falls and areas you could swim in. The water was a very pretty light blue color and was fun jumping from higher spot down into the cool water below. Followed the multi-tiered cascading waterfalls into light blue pools below. Finally made it to the top and the main part of the waterfall was huge and really pretty. The trip was topped off with a 50 cent fried banana and $1 fresh pineapple smoothie. After another freezing cold shower I Visited the night market again and enjoyed a traditional Lao dinner with happy hour drinks and free wifi. Tried some of the other bars which were pretty cool and where I met more backpackers but I headed back in for an early night.


temple in Ban Xang Hai


Some of the Buddhas inside the caves



Pak Ou Caves



riding along the Mekkong River

1.09.10 - walked around town enjoyed huge breakfast and Lao coffee for 4$ with free wifi on my iPhone. Visited temples and sights of Luang Prabang - including the royal palace museum/ho kham (where king sisavangvong and the riyal family used to reside) and wat xieng thong. Walked around town one last time before heading to the airport in a tuk-tuk.


night market

Attempted to check in for my flight to Vietnam, only to find out I was misinformed about the whole Vietnam visa situation. I spoke with two different people and saw on a few sights that for all of the countries I am visiting in Asia (including Vietnam) I could get a visa in arrival (as I did for Laos and Thailad). Apparently this isn't the case for Vietnam so they tell me I have to go back into town to get one, and my flights leaving in 2.5 hours and the office could be closed anyways because it's Saturday. I explain the situation to them an after asking three times "are u sure I can't get one here?" the woman finally responds "ok" (not exactly sure why she was holding out on me but just happy this may work out, currently waiting right now to see if it works!)